The Sun will come out...
Today - The sun came out.
A great way to start the day. We adventured out without the benefit of jackets. VERY brisk out, but we braved it.
Breakfast at a small coffee place near the hotel. A small taste of Italy again - strong coffee and croissants. Just a bite to get out on the day.
Headed down the street to some more museums. Because the weather's better, we stayed above ground. First - the Victoria and Albert Museum. Eclectic collection of everything from historic ironworking to armor to hand painted bible pages, etc. On our way out, we passed through the fashion exhibit (not armor and bustles, but Versace, Lauren, etc).
Another couple buildings down, we visited the Science Museum - Stellar exhibits over 5 floors. V2 rockets, napoleon's tootbrush and Washington's dentures, and motion simulation rides.
Art, architecture, history and science - Its been quite a trip. Certainly instructive. Perhaps something we will take with us.
We ALMOST made it back before the rain started. We had a hurried, amused jog back the last block and a half or so, as it began to rain. Oh well. We enjoyed the day while we could!
Tonight's pretty unplanned - no restaurant reservations. We're probably going to hit a pub (perhaps for another fish and chips! Tommorow's an early night. Heading to the airport early to take care of paperwork and making sure we're in the right place at the right time. That means packing this evening. Already set up a taxi to Heathrow.
We considered taking the Tube to the airport - which is definitely possible, but once again stymied by the luggage size. There are several areas which involve stairs, and running around in the face of a 12 hour flight doesn't sound like a good plan. We'll add that to the list of things we could do on another trip. Now that I think of it, it probably would have been possible to do that upon arrival! But, we weren't sophisticated riders in the Underground quite yet.
All a good learning experience.
If there's any news fit to print this evening (early AM and afternoon in the States), we'll update you before departure tommorow morning. Otherwise, if not - See you on the other side of the Pond!
Cheers
A thousand years of London
So, where does one start to explore the history of a city which has existed for 2000 years (starting from a 1 mile square village, settled by the Romans)?
Perhaps with last night's dinner - Hakasaan. Let me say, it was like an easter egg hunt to find the place. A tube ride, followed by some cryptic map directions, to a side street not well marked, in an area near the WestEnd. Our only tip was the guy with the clipboard standing by the doorway.
We went down the stairs, through two sets of doors, into an asian fusion wonderland. Dark woods, blood red lights, spot lighting over the tables, staff all dressed in black. For those of you who have been, it looked similar to Katana, on Sunset. Only darker lighting, and in a basement, rather than a view of the Sunset Strip.
Dinner started with a few of their signature cocktails - A hakatini - which was a nice, fruit infused martini. And for me, a pink mojito, with cranberry and tequila. A really good start.
Dinner included grilled dumplings and hot and sour soup. Some of the best we've had. Main courses were a vegetable mix, some grilled/curried shrimp and a merlot beef. The veggies were tasty, the shrimp was very well done - but the beef was...a show stopper. Rich, smoky, cooked to perfection. Some of the best food we've had (despite all the doubts expressed about London food). Many times we commented that we could have easily been in Santa Monica, rather than the United Kingdom.
From dinner, we walked through the West End a bit, and stopped off at a pub for a pint. Groups of expats comparing countries and a helpful barmaid giving tasters of draughts rounded out our adventure. A Tube ride back to Knightsbridge and we were back home for the evening!
What then? What about Monday?
Well, first off - the weather was supposed to be dicey, so we didn't know what to expect. How to start? With breakfast, of course. And, a minor bit of shopping. We walked over to Harvey Nichols - another well known store in London. Their 5th floor - yes, a Cafe, a restaurant, a Gelsons-like market, and a bar with its own wine-cellar room and cigar humidor! Jen had some pancakes with ricotta (very light and tasty) with bannana, and I had a traditional English breakfast with eggs and tomatoes and sausages. And much coffee.
Then - we decided to have a go at more traditional tourist fare - A double-decker bus tour. We visited the sights - London Bridge, Tower Bridge, The Tower of London, Westminster Abbey, past the court buildings (with their barristers in wigs and capes), Princess Di's house, the memorial to her, etc etc etc. So much to see. The problem - The weather was BITTER...really cold, raining off and on and terribly terribly cold. Very difficult for sightseeing.
After touring the sights, stopping at various locations, we opted for something slightly warmer: Museums.
A side note - London is not inexpensive. Certain things are pricey, and others are not, which is about what you'd expect for any major city - But its the exchange rate. Its about 2 US Dollars to 1 GBP. So, everything is twice as expensive to folks from the US. Even the exchange rate to the euro was better. BUT even with that, there is a light at the end of the tunnel: Museums are free admission.
So, we headed off on the Tube, to the Natural History Museum. Its quite a lovely museum, and we had a great visit. Tommorow we plan for the Victoria and Albert.
Tonight, we're went to Roka - which is apparently another asian influenced restaurant. Sushi and robataki. REALLY REALLY quite good. The yellowtail was impressive. Grilled fillet and asparagus, grilled chicken and leeks, and grilled mushrooms. Delicious stuff. Packed house. Definitely would recommend it.
We had our pick of pubs in the West End, but really, got drenched in the weather, so made our way back to the hotel via tube. Looked through some pamphlets for further adventures tommorow.
Sorry the photos are not so exciting. With the weather, the running from place to place, and often, the photo restriction, its been less prolific with the camera.
http://community.webshots.com/album/550644085BuKPHk
Messages from afar
This is a test - the latest blog entry, from London - doesn't seem to be coming up on Blogger. I want to see if subsequent entries go in.
Reign Reign Go Away
Greetings All,
We're in London, and taking in yet another part of the Europe experience.
As discussed already - plusses: Being able to understand the street signs, menus, people talking on the street, etc.
Minus' - Number one on the list - traditional UK weather. Last night it was simply hazy and chilly, with a misting of rain. Today, full-on, UK wind, rain and cold. It hearkens me back to my years in Oregon (only, with the OBVIOUS differences in culture and opportunity). Yes, its ugly weather. Particularly after a brilliant week in Italy of sun and relaxation. Another interesting difference - Where in Italy, we were off in "vacation" locations - here in London, we're obviously in the center of the city, with people going to work, commuting, running errands, etc. A much brisker pace of life.
Its all part of a great adventure. We're enjoying it - even as time winds down to our departure back to the States! We're absolutely looking forward to that as well.
But, the specifics:
Last night - a walk out on the town. We were given a recommendation for a nice little restaurant and pub nearby - but when we arrived, we decided it wasn't the "authentic" experience we were looking for. It was the more generic, pasta, choice of broiled fish with mixed vegetables type of place that you could have here, in Italy, or in Century City.
So - more walking (part of the thousand mile march we're on this trip). We stumbled upon a TON of restaurants, bars and clubs. We decided upon "The Trafalgar." A pub populated by locals out for a pint and a bite. After work, or before going out on the town. We ordered a couple of pints and a couple of fish and chips from the bar and waited. The fish was good - as were the chips. Even Jen enjoyed them with some malt vinegar, etc. I mean, if Jen was saying she liked fish, you know its going to be good. (But as we observed, baked/deep fried fish and potato, you can't go wrong.)
This morning -- Rain. Followed by some cold and a little more rain.
These are not the days for an open top double decker bus, or a boat ride on the Thames. We do have plans for some museums. But, today - shopping mission.
Jen was a woman on a quest. We hit the highlights, and along the way, saw a few things. We took the Tube to Picadilly Circus. Saw the famouse intersection/square. Walked down Oxford Street. What is Oxford Street, you ask? Imagine taking 3rd Street, the Century City mall and South Coast Plaza, and stretch them out over blocks, and put them in historic, several hundred year old buildings. We went to Selfridges, H&M, Top Shop, Harrods and others. The department store trend in the UK seems to be to include cafes and restaurants. Its definitely impressive. We had lunch at Sainsburys - the salt beef and pastrami - delicious. Rivals any NY deli.
Selfridges is huge, its like the Knotts Berry Farm of Shopping - the different areas, the brands, 5 stories, etc. Sainsburys also has a "food" area, sort of like putting Gelsons inside of Macys. But, it was cool. They ALSO have a tobacconist - Cigars and cigarettes. Remember - no embargo. Its not cheap but it is Cuban.
Then - there's Harrods. Ok - this place is HUGE. If Selfridges is the Knotts Berry Farm of shopping, then Harrods is the Disneyland. The "food halls" alone are the size of a good chunk of Century City Mall - There is a champagne and oyster bar (as well as one in Selfridges), there's a charcuterie, a wine and cheese bar, a spanish tapas and wine area, and a whole host of other stuff. Its just overwhelming. Then you start down the "egyptian halls," and the shopping is an elegant, expansive experience.
Tonight - plans for Hakasan. A hip asian fusion place, which has gotten a lot of good press. This will mean some more Tube rides.
We also plan to hit the Natural History museum, the Victoria and Albert Museum, and weather permitting, a great tour of historic sites, including the Tower of London, Westminster Abbey, etc.
Hopefully the sun is shining on you wherever you are reading this.
Cheers
Ciao Italy!
Well, the time has come to depart Italy, but not without a quick recap of last night's adventures:
First - a walk over to Harry's Bar. Its located just to the side of St. Mark's Square, right on the water. TINY. A small doorway (like getting in a phone booth), takes you inside a bar with the murmur of activity, but quiet elegance (the barbacks wear tuxedo jackets).
The bartender is the general - pointing when people walk in, so that the bar back/greeters take them to a table and take their order, while watching when people reorder, keeping a tab in his head, all while making a dozen bellini's at one time, and chatting with a few folks.
We did have the traditional bellini - made with their peach base and proseca sparkling wine. Followed by a screwdriver, made blended, then over ice; as well as a bloody mary. It was so cool there, we just couldn't leave.
But we did.
Roamed through the city some more on our way to a restaurant recommended by the hotel. Ristorante Antico Pignolo. Let me say - if you're making a top ten, must visit list for Venice restaurants, this one would be high up on it.
I wish that I was bigger or that I had fasted or something - just so I could eat more!
When we arrived, the place was quiet - getting in just before the heavy dinner hours -but as we sat there the place really filled up. Waiters in tuxes, fine dining to be sure. We started with some wine and cocktails. From there - jen had the caprese salad. I was told to inform Rob G., that this is the caprese salad that one dreams of (assuming one dreams of basil, tomato, and mozz.) I had the prociutto and melon. Delicious and simple.
Jen had the veal scallopini with vegetables. I had the lasagne. Jen's meal was melt in your mouth good. The lasgane I had - pretty much the best lasagne you've ever eaten. Every bite was delicious and it left you wanting more.
We ended with the strawberry crepes, made at the table, set alight, and served with a flourish, along with some grappa. The dishes we saw from other tables made us want to order all of their food too - but we were stuffed to the gills.
-- Ok -- back up to date:
Saturday AM - time to go!
We grabbed a water taxi from the hotel to the airport. VERY cool ride. Different route than the train station, so we got to see even more of the city.
You pull up to a dock and off you go. Here's a tip - they ask if you want a porter to take you to the airport. We did it, since we had big bags and had no idea where it was - But, you drive right past a perfectly lovely pedestrian path, about a 2 minute drive. If we had smaller bags, I would think you could walk and avoid the cost. But, as mentioned elsewhere, our bags are pretty big and heavy, so in the end, it was probably worth it.
Took care of stamping our VAT reciepts. Chilled in the airport. I might mention - very new looking, very nice airport. A few shops, places to eat, etc. Hardwood floors in the airport. Yes, that's correct. Hardwood floors. Its crazy. Venice is a very very expensive city, but you do get the perks I suppose.
Nice flight - we got the exit row, which made the flight more comfortable than the one from London to Rome.
Landed in London.
What can I say - They have CADBURY CREME EGGS IN THE AIRPORT VENDING MACHINES!!!!
(Ok, if Nell is reading this, let me say - we didn't get any, we just admired them from the outside).
Car picked us up for our drive to the hotel. We landed at Gatwick which is about an hour away from London. (We're leaving from Heathrow, so it will be closer and easier).
Checked into the hotel - Very nice. I like the downstairs "Honesty Bar" - basically a bar like you'd set up at your house (or like we did at ours), with a clipboard there. You fill in your room and what you took. Interesting. We're about a 10 minute walk from the Natural History Museum and the Victoria and Albert Museum. We plan to hit those. We plan to hit a place nearby for some fish and chips for dinner.
I must say - its almost informatin overload to be able to read street signs and papers, etc in English again. Very nice.
Also, we have more TV options - BBC channels, MTV, etc all in english. Still not quite DirectTV, but at least not 5 channels of italian dubbed 70's tv shows, their version of Donahue, and something resembling MTV Pimp My Ride (again, in italian).
(Not to mention the endless CNN International and BBC World).
More later - Hope all are well.
Cheers
Last Day in Italy
Greetings from Venice.
Today is a slower day. We're slipping off the strictly tourist/monument route, and settling down a little.
The day starts at the hotel breakfast - Actually pretty good. The first one that's included hot buffet - eggs, sausages, etc. But, we still stay pretty strictly "european" with our yogurt, etc. Though, Jen does discover that she enjoys Nutella. Fortunatelly, that's pretty easy to get in the States.
Next, off into town. Just browsing through shops, seeing the sights.
We cross the Rialto bridge and see food shops with salami, cheeses, local wines and pastas of every breed. We pass through some local markets - very cool. Its kind of like walking throgh Farmer's Market and then the Grove - REALLY expensive stores with jewlery, glass, clothing, etc, and then through stands with water, tourist items, embroidered aprons, etc.
Actually, the whole city is sort of a .... Palm Springs-ish place. Clearly there are LOTS of tourists here - From the UK, France, other Italians, etc. The native population is very small (because its hella-expensive to live here). So, everyone basically comes over for vacation. The town either caters to the tourist wanting to ride the gondolas and take pictures of old churches, or people who just want to sit in the square and sip coffee and people watch and get some sun. Its like sitting on a Universal Studios backlot - Narrow streets, the canals, guys in gondolier outfits. Very surreal - but also very relaxing (it doesn't hurt any that you don't have to dive out of the streets avoiding crazy drivers - since there aren't really any cars in the interior corridor). That makes it very relaxing. Plus, we decided not to go on any death-marches from historical site to ruin to site.
Lunch was just some pizza from a street-side stand (but, make no mistake, still excellent).
OH - I should mention - The folks at JK Place (our Florence hotel) did come through, and the power cord arrived while we were out sightseeing.
And, we have already booked our water taxi back to the airport - which is cool. Even the guidebooks say you should see the city from a water taxi, crusing down the Grand Canal.
Tonight, we have another special dinner booked - at a restaurant with its own gallery and wine cellar. Highly recommended. And, drinks at Harry's Bar!
More to come. Hope that everyone is doing well out there!
Viva Venice!
Day Eight – Florence to Venice:
Recap – more photos to come. Sorry for the delays. http://community.webshots.com/album/550508480DXroaQ
Today, we head out of Florence to Venice.
Started with a short walk to the train station. Our trip has taught me – take everything you think you need, and then divide by half. Wait a day, and then take out a couple more things. Mind you – we have rolling suitcases – but you wouldn’t want to jog with these things!
We did get all set up and into the train. A family with kids was separated, so we made a little trade, which was awesome, so we now had two seats on their own, next to the windows. A very “civilized” way to travel. We read the paper, watched the towns go by. Jen napped. We walked back to the restaurant car for some snacks. They even came down the aisle with beverages, like an airplane. VERY cool. We had a lot of fun.
Then – arrival in Venice. I have to say – Pretty cool for a city built on a swamp.
Stunning medieval architecture. The river is fascinating, as the taxis, gondolas, larger “vaporettos” (buses, basically) and other private boats go down. Though – you wouldn’t want to swim in this river!
A quick check in at the hotel. Apparently we were “upgraded to a jr. suite.” Scam? I don’t know. But it’s the biggest room we’ve had yet. Bed, sitting area, flat screen tv. Exceptional bathroom with a tub and shower (most of the hotel listings we’ve seen only have the shower).
A quick walk around town brings us to St. Mark’s square. Another large, exceptional example of construction. The church is amazing, the rows of palaces or other buildings of the elite of the 1500’s are stunning, with great views of the canals. Its not a stretch to imagine this as the hub of commerce and government at the time.
Now, however, there’s the disturbing catering to pigeons. To Jen and I, this is a small example of hell on earth – But in the center of the square, there are a dozen vendors selling birdseed – Apparently, so you can feed the pigeons and get them to land on you (I suppose, so one can take a picture). Now, I saw the Hitchcock movie (and after my well documented battles with pigeons at the Condo) so I think no one will be surprised that we’re not interested in feeding these rats with wings.
A little more walking – gelato (gotta get energy)… and back to the hotel for a soak in the Jacuzzi.
Oh – one nice post script – My next major screw-up while here. I left part of the power cord to the laptop in Florence. The hotel is kind enough to send that along, so I should have that tomorrow. Don’t worry – more updates to come! (Battery power!).
We hope that all is well with everyone there.
More updates in a bit.
Cheers.
The End of the (Florence) Road
Day Seven – Florence:
Post-script from dinner- We went to Buca Lapi. Recommended by Eddie, as well as the hotel here. Short walk over there. Going in, down the stairs (its basically in the basement), you enter a whole new world. Its similar to…well, a cross between the Palm, and Hugo’s Cellar. Warmly received, we were seated near a large group out for a serious evening (starting with proseca, antipasti, red wine, primi, secondi, etc etc etc). We started with a tomato soup for Jen and a Tuscan Bread Soup with Vegetables for me. Both were really well done. We also had a GREAT bottle of Chianti Classico. Very tasty. Dinner – crispy, fried artichokes. Really very very good. Then… Bisteca Florentino.
Ok – Fred Flintstone called and wants his ribs back. No, seriously, this was so scary, that the people next to us stopped and looked. I was very sad about the brontosaurus that had to give its life so we could have this. Sea salt, pepper and oil. Really impressive and tasty (and enough for 4 people). BUT, by failing to finish, we left room for dessert. A nice panna cotta, and then… a chantilly cream cake that…well, that Jen exclaimed was the best dessert she had ever eaten. If you ever found yourself in Florence, you should definitely go to this place.
Breakfast at the hotel – the usual. Nothing to write home about, except it is really good, and included in the fees, so well worth hitting, for both reasons.
Ok – our next stop – VERY exiting: wash-n-go. Yep – coin op laundry. In an effort to keep down the amount of clothes we brought, we decided to take advantage of washing this was. Very efficient, and easy to use (sitting around waiting for your clothes to dry is pretty universal). Met some nice folks while waiting.
From there – Shopping. On the advice of Paolo, our driver, we went to this leather school (no, not that kind). Its in the workshops of the Church of Santa Croce. Everything made by hand. Really impressive. Our visit there took us through their workshops, and of course, ends in their store. Good stuff – I just got something plain – a nice wallet and a cigar holder (did I mention there’s no embargo here?!?!). Jen saw some nice things, but nothing that brought the credit card out).
We were going to walk out the regular exit, when we discovered a doorway into the church – Thinking it was a faster way to exit, we received quite a surprise – Not only was this an EXCEPTIONAL church, it had some interesting memorial naves. Apparently buried within the walls and flooring of this church: Machiavelli, Michelangelo and Galileo as well as the monument to Dante! To think we were just going to walk out the other door!
From there, we walked around the square. Did a bit more shopping (Jen found a few things), and back to the hotel for a short break.
Break time over – another walk – First, some lunch. Pizza and a small café next to our destination - this time to the Accademia Gallery. Its most famous resident – David. It’s a really really big statue. But I have to say, very impressive sculpture. They have audio tours and descriptions to tell you about it – but you walk in, look down the hallway and its under a large skylight, highlighting its grandeur. They have a bunch of other religious art, which is impressive (and courtesy of our guide at the Uffizi, we understood more of it) but wow – clearly, this is the house of David.
Tonight – dinner at the Lounge – the restaurant here at JK Place.
They bring out a starter of peccorino with honey. We're seeing a lot of that here. Its pretty tasty if you haven't tried it.
Jen had a pasta starter - with butter and sage. I had a salmon appetizer. Both were tasty and elegantly presented. A couple of cocktails to go along with them. Dinner was veal with grilled artichokes for Jen. Seared beef filet with Cabernet reductions and mashed potato with olive oil.
Desert was similarly elegant - a chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream, and an apple tart with a lime sherbert. Both were delicious.
A short walk around town to take in the sights, last minute. Then, back to the hotel to pack - We have an early day! Train to Venice!
More to come!
La Dolce Vida
Day Six – Florence:
Recaps:
I am reminded that we are not the only celebrities that our driver (from yesterday) has had recently. When at the wine tasting, he showed us the bottle of wine autographed by Lynda Carter, at her wine tasting tour; and told us about his driving gig with Carson Palmer (I guess post-injury and post-football season, he had some time on his hands).
ALSO – Let me say, for the record – My directional skills in Italy have been STELLAR (especially when compared to driving around LA). Hmmm… something’s probably wrong with the fact that I know a city that I’ve been in for a day, rather than one I’ve lived in for 20 years.
Photos:
Photos from yesterday and today are here: http://community.webshots.com/album/550431514hgctes
We had a bunch, and blogger loads them somewhat slowly.
Day Six –
Breakfast at the hotel is served family-style at a large wooden table in a courtyard atrium. Very nice start – and we need to fuel up, because Jen’s got some shopping to do!
Our walk around the city takes us past the train station (which is good- because that’s our ride to Venice in a couple of days); past a BUNCH of churches (which here, means basically every other corner). Past the Duomo, in daylight. Stunning. The church is amazing and the square is stunning – it’s the rockstar/hollywood/forum of the 1500’s. The Uffizi (now a museum, formerly the offices of the Medici family and the heart of Florentine government), a large set of fountains, a set of Medici era elite “apartments,” and of course, another church. Its really an interesting snapshot of life in the 1500’s.
But, a break in the history – shopping:
We visited the Ferragamo store – Nice stuff. Jen found a pair of shoes that we picked up. AND, (ok, this is shopping and history) they have the Ferragamo Museum. For some, this is the St. Peter’s Basilica of shopping. Yes we went. NO, we did not wait in line or pay a fee (PLEASE). It was interesting, as a story of the American dream. Italian immigrant, comes to America with a dream and a suitcase, make shoes for movie stars and politicians, etc. And the rest is history.
From there, another string of stores, ending with Gucci. Another purchase there. Epic success on the shopping scale.
From there, we were fortunate enough to get ourselves on a tour at the Uffizi. One bummer – no pictures. What can one say, while walking through the hallways of the Medici seat of power? Marble, frescos, paintings by DaVinci, Michelangelo, Botticelli, etc. Sculptures. Stunning. The self-portrait by DaVinci, Botticelli’s Venus, the Medici Tribune, the views of the city from the courtyards, etc etc etc. I can’t do it justice. You could watch a number of documentaries, and still not take get it all in. But, suffice to say – its pretty darn cool. No purchases in the gift shop. I think I’ve probably caught all of that on the History Channel, and no – you really don’t need an umbrella with a picture of the Madonna with Child.
Afterwards? A little more walking around the city. Tonight, a restaurant recommended by Eddie, and the Hotel. Tomorrow – more shopping, more museums.
We’ll keep you posted.
Day Five – On Holiday – Italy:
Lots to do today – We’re leaving Rome, and heading to Florence.
After breakfast and a last minute walk to the Spanish Steps, our driver picks us up to take us to Florence, with a few stops in-between.
The drive takes us out of the central corridor of Rome – “old Rome” and we see the rest. Pretty much what you’d expect in any older, heavily developed city – Auto repair, hotels, gas stations, restaurants, etc. Not the romance of ancient Rome, but definitely the part of the city we didn’t see, and a grounding influence on our perspective.
Normally, I might say – hey, just take the train to Florence – Faster, cheaper, etc. But, in this case, we have two stops:
Stop One – Orviette – A small, medieval town about 1.5 hrs north of Rome. Exactly what you’d imagine – small streets, high stone walls, little shops and places to eat. Spectacular views. Had lunch in a small place on the plaza. Jen had some tagleatella with a bolognese sauce. I had a pasta with pesto. The lunch was good, but the dessert was astounding. A panne cotta with sauce, and profiteroles with chocolate. Really good.
Stop Two – A medieval castle that is now a winery, for a personalized wine tasting. A 500 yr old castle, at the top of a hill. Original wine cellars for aging, original water cisterns capturing rain water, etc. Exceptional wine. Served by the winery staff, with accompanying cheese, bread and honey. Shipping some home!
The drive to Florence (Firenze) was marked by a traffic accident ahead of us. Nothing like some bumper to bumper traffic to make us feel like we’re home!
Florence is stunning. A real, medieval city. Living in Los Angeles, one gets used to things that are made to look like they’re something else. Its really strange to be in a place that really IS. When you walk down the street and see medieval stonework, you can’t really believe that its medieval stonework.
Oh – and the area we’re in – the central part (just past the Ponte Vecchio, etc), is also a really nice area. As Jen says – “There’s so much shopping, I don’t know what to do. There’s too much.”
So – the hotel – JK Place. Wow. This place is good. We got the room that’s featured on the website (four-poster bed, bathroom in marble, up some stairs, etc). Really friendly staff. Beautiful surroundings. Outstanding location.
Dinner was at a small trattoria recommended by the hotel. Jen started with a feta and melon salad, and then off to some gnocchi. I had a salad, and had the chicken with crispy artichokes. No dessert tonight. Off for a little walk.
We did a little exploring – Ponte Vecchia – really nice. Should be really busy during the day when everything is open. On our walk back, we stumbled upon where the Uffizi Gallery is. Looks AMAZING. Statuary outside alone is enough to fill a museum visit. Hopefully the concierge here can get us in. Surreal to sit and listen to some folks singing Hotel California and some Simon and Garfunkel songs, in the plaza, in front of Roman and Medieval statutes.
Down the road – passed right by the Duomo. Again – not my book – but DAMN. This church takes your breath away – even at night, when you can’t see half of it. It should be stunning during the day.
So – off to bed. Its late here. Lots to do tomorrow. Will update with pictures then.
Cheers.
Relaxing in Roma
Day Four – Rome – Sunday:
We’ve been busy. Ended up sleeping in. Needed the rest after all this walking.
We decided this would be an easier day. So, we ventured forth to the Piazza S. Lorenzo –
Eddie recommended a place called Ciampini. We ended up on a Piazza that looks like its straight out of central casting: Colorful buildings, a fountain, kids playing, newsstand, a couple of sidewalk cafes, people selling flowers, etc.
We found the place with very little difficulty. A light lunch of caprese salad for Jen, and a “roman sandwich” (basically something like a Panini, but lighter, thinner) with prosciutto. This was followed by a dish of their exceptional ice cream – creamy, rich, and lucky for us, small portions (or else they’d have to roll us home). We had one of chocolate and one of mixed berries. Not only delicious, but sitting in the square, we definitely had the sense of being there, doing what locals do.
A lighter day of sightseeing – double-decker, open bus tour. Takes you to a number of major sights. We elected not to get on and off, because we had been to a number of the locations – the tour was great - definitely another perspective on the city. And, we saw how many things we saw, and how much ground we covered, in our first two days. A few Metro rides, to cover distance a little easier.
We hopped off the Metro to check out the Piazza de Populo. The egyptian column was covered for restoration, but still a cool visit.
We walked back along the street that our hotel is on, and scoped out our location for cocktails tonight!
Before we depart - A Happy Mother's Day to all !
More to come.
Day Three of Rome - PostScript
Post Script Day Three – Rome- Saturday Night:
Before we begin Day Four, let’s catch up on Day Three
First – I neglected to point out something interesting about the weekends – The streets EXPLODE with people. As if there weren’t already almost no laws when it comes to crossing and driving – on the weekends, especially on Saturday night – it was like Bourbon Street in New Orleans! People walking down the middle of the street. Strolling, being seen. Just crazy. Mix in the tourists and you have a very crowded city.
– Dinner.
We ventured out to a highly recommended, (apparently) well known restaurant in the former Jewish Ghetto area. Its called Piperno.
Again, because we’ve adopted the European way (and its scary in those taxis), we walked. Along the way, we crossed the Area Sacra – An area of current excavation with several temple ruins in one area. Its also home to packs of cats, who apparently are local celebrities.
We got to the area early, and went to “Mad Jacks,” an english-style pub nearby. We refreshed ourselves with a couple of ales, and relaxed in the universal hospitality of a bar with reggae music and drinks.
Arriving at the restaurant, we were warmly greeted, and shown to a table in the corner. We selected a nice bottle of wine, and started in. Folks – really – this was the best meal we’ve had so far (and the quality has been escalating as we go – this was really stunning)
We opted for the fried mozzarella and the Salumi Misto – assorted salami. The fried mozzarella was not the heavy, breaded version you may be used to. These were slabs, about the size of two 9v batteries. The coating was like a light flour battering. It was light, flaky. It’s the closest to feeling “healthy” about eating fried food that one can. The salami was three or four different kinds, 3 or so slices each. Delicious.
I had a gnocchi Bolognese. It was “wow, let me stop for a second while I eat that first bite” good. Really flavorful, fresh, and delicious. Jen had the veal with prosciutto and cheese. Stunning. Dessert was a cherry crostada (tart).
We geared up for the walk back. It would seem that this area (or at least the route we took) was packed with young people – bars and clubs must be pretty hoppin in this area. We were a bit cooked from the day, so back to the hotel we went. We’ve gotten familiar enough with the area to start taking shortcuts!
Disneyland for the Ancients
Day Three, More of Rome!
March On! To Rome!
Today, we have more sightseeing planned. Thank heavens for the continental breakfast at the hotel. Got a lot more walking to do!
We decide to get an earlier start to the day. Another walk - back through the city, to The Forum area, the Colosseum and the Palantine Hill area. To the heart of imperial Rome.
There is so much to describe, that we would simply not do it justice. We started slow, with Trajan's Market (the first real mall); the Forums of Trajan, Augustus, and Julius Casare. The size, scope and scale of these constructions is stunning, when viewed in person. It is amazing to see what basically amounts to "modern" construction of plazas and throughfares, but done in marble and columns and mosaic.
Arches (through the Forum area, the Capital area and the Palantine) of Septimus Severus, Constantine, and Titus. Basilicas and temples.
One winds one's way up to the top of Palantine Hill (one of the Seven "original" hills of Rome). There are several really good reasons - The Romulus Huts (the start of the city of Rome); The height of the hill, upon which to view the panoramic scope of the heart of imperial Rome; the site of the imperial palaces (renovated and expanded by Tiberius, Nero, Domitian, Hadrian and Septimus Severus); and, most importantly, at the Palantine Hill, you can buy a combo ticket that gets you in the Palantine area, AND into the Colosseum without waiting in the epic line outside of it!
You also get quite a sense of the daily life of imperial Rome. You see parts of what was basically a Roman apartment/housing complex.
You walk the pathways which those visiting Rome would stroll down, into the heart of the city, past the temples, through the arches, down to where the senate met.
The Colosseum - Also - epic. Words fail to describe the way it strikes you. Throw in some snack bars and lighting, and its like being in the Rose Bowl (the seats in the Colosseum might actually have been more comfortable). Although damaged by earthquakes, stripped of marble to make other monuments, and of course the ravages of time, you STILL get the sense of the scale of the place.
The Colosseum, Forums and Palantine area is like Disneyland - with tourists checking out the Temple of the Vestal Virgins, rather than "Its a Small World" (though, I think the Vestal Virgins have a better song....). People taking photos, tour groups, an entire cottage industry of souvenir vendors (think mouse-ears), food stalls, guides, etc etc etc. Its just surreal.
We've thrown in some photos. Perhaps more to come on a third party photo site. For now, let me just say that the photos and descriptions till won't do it justice. You could spend days on just these areas. Suffice to say, it was just pretty darn cool to stand on the plazza overlooking Domitian's private stadium where horse and chariot racing took place, also where you could see the Colosseum off to your left - and think, yeah, this is pretty much what life would have been like for him (and I think life would be pretty good!)
Lunch was just some pizza from a small place between the Spanish Steps and the Metro station. After everything we did today (walking-wise), NO guilt at eating pizza!
Tonight's dinner should be good. Another place with a lot of recommendations.
Thank you to everyone who took a moment to look upon our little travelogue. Greetings and good wishes to you all.
A special thank you to:
Kel -for taking care of everything at home (including Mabel!);
Sandie W. - thanks for everything - the planning, the good advice and the good wishes!
Cheers for now!
Mitch & Jen
Starting The Journey In Europe
Day Two: Rome:
Three revelations for today:
Living in the area of Rome we’re in (sort of the “old city”) must be like living in Hollywood/Sunset area in Los Angeles, or the French Quarter in N.O. – You’re used to tourists, and even if you live/work there, you understand that the crowds, business and traffic may be made up, in large part, of visitors. Which leads to;
People here, generally speaking, have been REALLY nice. They have been generally friendly, generally helpful, and basically understanding that you might be an idiot and need assistance.
Walking. Walking. Walking
- Breakfast at Hotel: Good, included breakfast. Gotta fuel up for the walk ahead.
- Walk to Vatican – That’s the plan. Along the way we encounter:
- Plaza Navona: Fountains, cobblestones, etc. Surreal. The colors and sounds. Interesting thing as we walk around and see the government offices, businesses, etc. –The city has been continuously occupied for thousands of years, and they have been recycling. Kinda cool.
- Trajan’s Column – Very cool. Tells the story of his rise to power, various deeds. A marble curriculum vitae, as it were.
- Pantheon. Wow. I mean, you’ve seen it on travel shows, and represented in pictures or in film, but when you’re on a side street sipping from your bottle of water, and you turn the corner and see a cornerstone of ancient roman architecture, it takes your breath away. The exterior is stunning, and symbolic and then you go inside and see its conversion to a church, which is also stunning. The dome, its occulus, the religious frescos on the walls. Wow.
UNFORTUNATELY, this is also the site of the first screw-up – Mine. Basically. I borrowed Kellie’s camera, and mis-read the battery gauge. So, that means, dead battery. But, we were resilient. Went outside and bought two Kodak disposables. On the plus side, that means we have pics here and the rest of the day. On the down side, you’ll have to wait on shots of the walk to the Vatican, its museums, etc.
- Vatican Museum. Also wow. On the advice of our driver, we went later in the day. It was still packed with people, but far fewer lines. Any description I give would not do justice. Simply, I would have to say that we were stunned by the breadth and depth of art – Statues, objects of significance collected over 500 years. Art from the masters on the walls. Leading, of course, to the Sistine Chapel. No cameras allowed (but I have a cell phone…. Disrespectful, but effective). Again – beyond description. Its all that they make it out to be.
- Metro – SO much walking to and around the Vatican museum. We take the Metro back to the area our hotel is in. Because of this, we decide to hit the Trevi Fountain too.
- Trattoria – Another sidewalk place. This one ROCKS. Simple marhgarita pizza. But so fresh, crisp, so tasty. Exactly the WOW you would be expecting or hoping for. Just what the doctor ordered.
- Trevi Fountain – Impressive. Huge fountain. Surrounded by various churches. (Pics on disposable camera). Stunning construction, but the area around it is a circus. Not in the roman sense. In the – gee there are tons of people trying to sell me toys and flowers sense. Its like walking down Third Street Prommenade. There’s a Benetton across the square from the Fountain! It’s impressive, just strange.
- Gelato – Had to have one! Very tasty.
- Misc Churches – impressive architecture, frescos, etc. Not my part of the book, but they sure do put on a good show. Art, statues, pomp and circumstance which inspires reverence.
- Dinner – Reservations at Nino’s – Or, as Jason asked via IM – “What’s for dinner? Italian?” Nino’s has been recommended by everyone we’ve talked to. Nino's was outstanding. Started with some zuppa fagioli, which might be the best I have ever had. Jen had some zuchini in vinegar and oil. Very tasty.I had a chicken dish with spinach. Jen had baked canneloni. Creme-caramel and tiramisu to finish. The place is so good that the couple next to us had already been there twice in the four days that they have been here.
From there, more walking - and off to ''Enotec Antica di Via della Croce. Small bar with food near our hotel. GREAT wine and alcohol selection. Hoppin little place. Good music. Looks like the antipasti would be great, but since we already gorged, it was just wine, proseca, and some grappa (that tasted almost like B&B).
Walked back to the hotel feelin PRETTY GOOD about Day Two.
Day Three - More sightseeing on the agenda. We'll let you know how it goes....
The Journey to Europe Begins!
Day One: Travel and Rome:
The day started busy, but casual. Both Jen and I, with last minute guilt- checking email and doing some work remotely. A couple hours of that, last minute packing and playing with the pug. Tons of calls with good wishes, which we definitely appreciated.
Kel and mom pick us up around 3, for our drive to the airport. Our goodbyes were heartfelt.
While in the check-in line - A surprising call from Rob Galperson- on his way back from Chicago. We meet for drinks in the Red Carpet club for our sendoff.
On to the flight. What can I say? It wasn’t first class (business class) but close enough! TONS of legroom, personal video screens and a never-empty wine glass made the trip go
as smoothly as it could (for a flight of that length). Sadly, neither Jen nor I slept during the trip, so the day was a long one.
Heathrow’s a nice airport – but clearly the expansion they have done makes transfers…challenging. We got off the plane, had to walk quite a ways to a shuttle point, hop a shuttle bus around a quarter of the airport, etc. We eventually get to our transfer flight. British Airways is very friendly, but after 11 hours, we just didn’t want to get on another flight! PLUS, I have to say, a TINY bit less room than we just had! (I had two hours of observing the scalp of the gentleman in front of me who decided to recline through the whole flight!).
We get to Rome. Tired, but glad to be on the ground. The driver is there to pick us up. Let me say this – I was lukewarm on the idea of a driver while in the planning stages, but this was worth it. It was fast, easy, and we got a special bonus. This guy discovered it was our first trip, so he took us on a short, guided tour of the city, advised where we could walk to or not, etc. Drove us past the Vatican, Trajan’s Marketplace, the Forum, Coliseum, etc etc etc. An extra 30 minutes or so to get to the airport, but really well worth it.
Hotel Art. For those of you who have seen this hotel profiled on the Travel Channel - well, yes, its just like that. In a former monastery. Really modern. Really cool. Inside, sorta like a San Francisco hotel. Not huge, but very hip. Like staying at the W or the Viceroy.
A short walk- Time for adventure. Wow. We’re in Rome.
Spanish steps – Even at night – full of people. Walked around. Window shopping. Stopped in a random trattoria for dinner. Not the “wow” experience we were looking for, but we’ve been traveling for something like 16 hours, so all we want to do is go back to the hotel and straight to bed.
Last Day In America
Its been a good length of time since the last post. Things have been busy here at the Ranch.We moved into high gear in preparations for the trip: Comfortable shoes had to be tested, luggage evaluated and possible tourist destinations to be reviewed.Everyone has been very kind with their suggestions. We're chock-full of recommendations for bars, shopping and gelato! The challenge is going to be making sure we actually can do half of what's on the list!Now, we're on to the final launch preparations - That means I'm packed and playing on the computer, and Jen is spending some serious pug-time.It seems strange - On the eve of this trip. Its been so long in the planning stage, it hardly seems possible that by this time tommorow, we'll be somewhere between Texas and New York!We promise to do our best to update everyone on the status of things, and maybe even sneak in a picture or two.CIAO !
